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By Will Fulford-Jones
An icon of '80s London and then a symbol of its kitschest excesses, the original Chicago Rib Shack was put out of its misery in 1999. Its new owners claim to have been pestered by diners desperate for its return.
Despite the mocked-up log ceiling, this is a shack in name alone: it's situated in the unlucky Knightsbridge building that most recently housed short-lived Mocotó, then before that the equally ill-fated Isola. It's a grand two-floor set-up with few designs on intimacy. The decor nods to the Shack's blowsy heyday: the toilets are marked 'Bobby Q's' and 'Barbie Q's'; a display of painted porkers is headed by a sign reading 'Exhi-“pig”-tion'. The homage to the '80s even extends to the presence on the menu of baked avocado.
Ultimately, it is the food that is of most questionable taste. Of late, rival rib shack Bodean's has both increased the quality and decreased the price of BBQ in the capital, but the Chicago Rib Shack hasn't learned from the success of its established competitor. The baby-back ribs were decent enough, as was a fillet steak, but the beef brisket and the tender pulled pork were totally overwhelmed by the gratingly sweet sauce in which they'd been drowned. Starters were little better: reasonable chicken wings, drab stuffed potato skins. As a party palace, this could become a Big Easy-esque cash cow. As a restaurant, the food doesn't cut the mustard.
Incidentally, some tables are set aside for reservations, with others held for walk-ins. We chose the latter, having been told on the phone that our wait in the bar should be 'ten minutes to an hour'; exactly two hours after arriving, we sat down to eat. Unprompted, the staff graciously comped our bar tab by way of apology, but we'd still advise you not to bother without a booking.
Time Out Issue 1971: May 29-June 4 2008
London's best review, food and drink news
Great evening and fab cocktails - would definately go again. Ribs superb - BBQ sauce as good as ever.
How long i have waited for a lip smacking rack of ribs.
Wow! and the coleslaw is tops
Service excellent
Cracking place - food pretty good, service sharp place amazing. Will be going again and again!
the reviewers must be nuts
this place is fantastic! i came with some work colleagues for a relaxing quiet night out and the atmosphere and service blew me away.
what a place
As someone who works locally I’d far rather go here and sink a few cocktails and have a plate of food than some of the other stuff out there. The ribs were pretty good and the cocktails reasonably priced for Knightsbridge. I’ve spent some time in New york recently and the salads & Iceberg wedge are neat touches.
What I like is the design and atmoshphere - it’s pretty cool and the staff are really nice which makes a change from some of the stuck up places. My advice is ask for Phil at the bar to make you some pink mojitos, get a booth in the restaurant and enjoy it for what it it is. It’s never pretending to be a fine dining restaurant but it’s great fun, pretty good food and overall a 7.5/10.
This was honestly the most dissapointing of Visits,.
The food tasted like it had been sitting there for days. We went on a Saturday Night and had already had 2 courses withing 20 mins of sitting down
It was not pleasent, I would call this an overpriced TGI's and that is being very generous
This place is not what it used to be
I would NOT recommend it.
Total disappointment - I was expecting so much from this place. Money better spent at Byron Hamburgers in Ken High St if it's a burger your after.