The Prince of Wales

Another day, another gastropub - and most of the rest you already know. The decor here is homely with splashes of smartness, there's room for drinkers and room for eaters, beer and wine are on an equal footing, and the kitchen is putting fresh, seasonal British ingredients in no-nonsense, meat-orientated recipes.

So far, so formulaic; but the devil, of course, is in the detail.

The photocopied menu had us excited with its spartan descriptions ('Lamb Fritters, Caper Relish') reminiscent of the austere menu at St John: certainly not a bad model to aspire to. It's also confidently short - six starters, four mains, sundry extras - which is rarely a bad thing. And, save for a couple of trifling reservations, the cooking mostly delivered on its promise.

We ate in the 'pub' bit, the first section of three as you go in, with lower tables and seating on bar stools and benches; the other two sections are more restaurant-like with square tables and backed chairs. Our food was mostly delightful. Venison bresaola was beautifully presented: a circle of paper-thin discs garnished with shreds of pickled beetroot and shallots. Brown crab on toast was crabby, creamy, and herby, and was the overall highlight.

For our mains it was a cracking beef and ale pie in a mini casserole dish with the crust baked over the top, and a whole roast partridge with parsnips and watercress. The bird came out a little underdone, and had to be sent back for a second brief blast in the oven but, when it came back, it was perfect. Another main, battered haddock with chips and peas, seemed the weakest link: the batter was too greasy and its super-crunchy triple-cooked chips took the concept too far. A fine tartare sauce offered some consolation.

In the bar section the walls are covered by an impressive collection of pewter mugs. We learned that these are more than mere decoration: many have been earmarked by regulars, who take them down to drink from them whenever they stop by. It's this kind of quirk which a new gastropub needs to lift itself out of identikit territory. But with great cooking too, this should quickly become a local landmark.

Andrew Staffell

Time Out Issue 1950: January 2-8 2008

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Latest user reviews

I think this is a great place to eat, and i go there regularly. Being so into this style of eating and living just around the corner, it's great. The menu is always interesting, and changes frequently, featuring gutsy dishes with offal and meat being at the forefront. I ate last night and had... [More]
Michael blackwood  Jan 19 2008