The Normanby

Recently we reviewed Putney's new Prince of Wales pub and observed that the gap in the market for a really good gastropub in the area had finally been filled. In fact, with the opening of the nearby Normanby around the same time, locals who once yearned for good-quality British cooking on their doorstep are now spoiled for choice.

The two pubs are different enough not to tread on each other's toes. The Normanby is the less conventional. Its high-contrast blond, yellow and black design has airs of a swish modern brasserie, but the awnings say 'pub' and it does have a pub's bar and drinks (on tap: Stella, Guinness, Staropramen, Beck's, Hoegaarden, Adnams Broadside), as well as a plasma screen in one corner. However, the unusual layout - virtually S-shaped - means the rear section, which is done up like a proper dining room, is more secluded.

But there was no risk of our being disturbed anyway when we popped in for Saturday brunch, as the place was almost deserted. The fact that it still felt welcoming is a testament to the warm design and intelligent layout.

The food really impressed us. Simple starters such as mushrooms on toast or a pint of prawns were just right, but main courses demonstrated an unexpected flair, especially beer-braised lamb with potato gratin, which consisted of a huge hunk of tender, moist meat, a neat block of potatoes with just the right hint of garlic and a very professional, rich jus. The house burger was also premium meat, sensitively cooked, although, if we're splitting hairs, the chips might have been a bit crunchier.

But it was a readily forgiven lapse, especially considering the great value for money being offered (burger and chips: £7.50; pint of prawns: £5). In lesser venues it wouldn't be a surprise to see the same dishes on a menu at 150 per cent of the price. On this evidence, The Normanby is unlikely to remain empty for long.
Andrew Staffell

Time Out Issue 1955: February 27- March 4 2008

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