Bars & Pubs

By Andrew Staffell

RIP The Racing Page, a Richmond institution, and a classic example of two pub genres that are going swiftly out of fashion: the sports pub, and the pub with Thai kitchen. Reincarnated as The Duke, it's now predictably taking a ride on the vogueish 'pub and dining room' bandwagon.

It feels brighter and more spacious now but the layout is the same, with the central bar where it always was: if it ain't broke… The biggest difference is that the kitchen is now exposed for all to see at the rear. We took a nice big, dark-wood table on the very spot where I had watched the Rugby World Cup final only a few months before.

On the menu: to start, broccoli soup; potted crab on toast; bresaola with rocket; butternut squash with ricotta; etc. Safe dishes, effectively executed. Some main courses push the boat out a little more - eg. pan-fried seabream with prawn and scallop ravioli - but most are simple and unfussy: wild boar sausages and mash; rack of lamb with parsnips. A beef and Guinness pie was spot on, and roast cod with olive oil mash was also good.

There are seven regular draught beers: Hoegaarden, Leffe, Amstel, Kronenbourg 1664, San Miguel, Guinness, London Pride - plus guests. It's not the most inspiring list, but could be worse. A user-friendly wine list divides around 40 wines by style, with a good number by the glass.

The overhaul may have initially alienated the die-hard regulars, but there's still plenty of room for them should they deign to return. Whether they can live without the televised sports and the pad thais, only time will tell.

Time Out Issue 1955: February 27- March 4 2008