The Devonshire

Towards the top of Balham High Road and, thankfully, lurking just under the 'rah-rah' radar of the Clapham Common crowd, The Devonshire is now very different to the traditional Victorian tanking-house it was before. A recent £650,000 modern makeover has tiptoed around the original features before giving it a thorough thrashing with the trendy stick. It's all gigantic and grandiose with stucco ceilings above and distressed wooden boards below, etched windows, retro booths, bacchanalian murals, swathes of brown and cream enlivened by chandeliers and lampshades giving it large. Not sure about the champagne bucket display, though. Through the enormous arch lies a snazzy, separate dining area and doors to the impressive beer garden. There's a small wind-sheltered front patio too.

Young's ales, now brewed in Bedfordshire, have remained, although they must be a little bemused to be sat next to draught Pimm's. Start with the Bitter then move on to the Special before treating your taste-buds to the bottle-conditioned beauty that is Young's Special London Ale. If the beer brewed using Fairtrade bananas is a step too far, there are also four lagers of which Pilsner Urquell - the original pilsner - is the pick. There's also a good wine list and selection of spirits.

Fish cakes, award-wining bangers and burgers makes for bar food while finer diners get to order pork belly and duck breast; if you're kicking off early, how about a black and white pudding tower for breakfast?

The punters are fresh-looking young professionals with plenty of white-collar dollar. On our visit a befuddled duo at the bar lamented the trend of absurd band names. 'What was wrong with just being called Prince or Sting?'

We recommend lounging in the sun-trap beer garden amid the water features, statues and with the enormous BBQ straining at the leash.
Ben McFarland

Time Out Issue 1969: May 15-21 2008

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Latest user reviews

Went for lunch yesterday. Took ages to get served. Had about 30mins wait in between each course. Menu very much 'pub grub' dressed up as gastro - which is fine if you like pies and quiches but for ladies who don't want to pile on pounds, (and giden this is located in Chiswick that's probably a... [More]
Sophie Phipps  May 8 2008

The peroni is hideously expensive (£4.15 a pint?!) but we didn't actually try any other drinks so I have no idea how much the others are.
Anonymous  May 8 2008

It's a great pub for the area and much nicer than anything in south clapham. the pub isn't as cosy as the abbeyville but the food is better and costs less. The beer garden is great for summer.
Anonymous  May 7 2008

It's a truly lovely looking bar and the beer garden is fantastic, but £4.15 for a pint of Peroni? Nigh on a tenner for a burger and chips?! It's very much over priced, which is a shame otherwise it would be a much more enjoyable trip. The food wasn't particularly fanastic either and the BBQ's... [More]
Johnny Sayer  May 7 2008

Just under the radar of the Clapham brigade? That's who it's aimed at. Now full of Jeremy's and Lizzy's with their little baby Margot's eating salad and drinking overpirced Cider. This place used to be a top quality, solid little boozer full of proper people, and now it is aimed at and... [More]
James Davies  May 7 2008