Bars & Pubs

Since its makeover by the owners of the Brown Dog in Barnes, the Duke has attracted a moneyed clientele happy to splash out £30 on a decent Pouilly-Fumé or £55 on a better red from Pauillac. They're mostly here, though, for the food: for the roast guinea fowl with a puy lentil casserole (£16) and the lasagne of ceps and jerusalem artichokes (£13). There's still a small bar, with three stools and taps of London Pride, Adnams, Leffe, Guinness and Beck's Vier, but this is definitely a sit-down-to-dine place. Unlike the wines, the decor is spectacularly and bizarrely ill-chosen: a framed Falklands-era Sun splash here, fading boxing posters there and some fairly awful art dotted about the place.

Time Out Bars, Pubs & Clubs Guide 2008/9