Bars & Pubs

A drinks menu unchanged since 2005 and several head bartenders since the days of Dick Bradsell in 1999, of late the Player hasn't been trying too hard to keep a buzz in this sexy basement space. True, as the cocktail menu says, 'don't fix what ain't broke'; it's a philosophy ably demonstrated by the immaculately conceived drinks: ten Player Favourites (£6.50-£8), In Flight martini Upgrades (from £6.50 Economy to £11 First) using Wyborowa, Grey Goose and Wyborowa Single Estate vodkas. True, the food (grilled tiger prawns £6, imam bayildi spiced aubergine £4) is still superior. Yet the disco balls over the DJ booth have faded, the button stools are tatty and the atmosphere somewhat jaded. Time again to roll the dice?

Time Out Bars, Pubs & Clubs Guide 2008/9