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From the outside, the Cod appears to be a friendly old boozer, but inside the look has been cleaned up with cream walls, spot lighting and varnished pine furniture, leaving it somewhat soulless except for the beautiful old island bar in the centre. Pictures of carefree cricketers and jolly huntsmen hint at the venue's former Sloane Ranger reputation, but these days it's better known for the unpretentious pub food on offer in the adjacent fish restaurant. Dishes such as crispy salmon and smoked haddock fish cakes (£10.95) and the Admiral's fish and chips (£11.95) were in such demand on our recent visit that we had to wait an hour for a table. A 30-strong fine wine list can be enjoyed by diners and drinkers alike and starts at around £13; an unusually well-heated courtyard is relished by smokers in the winter months.
Time Out Bars, Pubs & Clubs Guide 2008/9
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Get braced for a "Fawlty Towers" experience. Arrive in a party of 8 (for a reservation of 7) to be told that you may or may not be seated at all, because the table was designed for 7. Have your (full) menus replaced with a reduced-choice version, because "chef cannot entertain diverse orders from groups larger than 7." Order 7 dishes from the reduced menu and one from the full menu, to enter an argument about the inconvenience caused to the chef. (The 8th dish was a salad.) Wait some more to realize that chef's understanding of "medium-rare" and "scorched" is somewhat blurry. (Even though, to be fair, most dishes were quite good.)
The admiral can make an adventure out of a simple dinner. Apples, celery, walnuts, grapes...