Bars & Pubs

Formerly a sports/TV pub with a pool table and Elvis nights in leafy, gentrified Chiswick, the new Duke of Sussex is now a gastropub from the people behind the Realpubs chain. Low lighting, ubiquitous rich woods and chandeliers make for a cosy, relaxed atmosphere. These gastro design staples are complemented by some more idiosyncratic features, including cherubic friezes up high in the dining room. And the cooking doesn't conform to the hackneyed, same-old gastropub template either. Some things are familiar (pea and celeriac soup; brawn with gherkins and toast; skate with white beans and salsa verde; 28-day-hung steak and chips). But you've also got some Spanish dishes to choose from, such as salt-cod croquettes, fabada (white bean and pork stew), and Galician fish stew. They fit in perfectly. This is simple, hearty, rustic food: what gastropubs should be all about. Thumbs up too for a wine list that's diverse, interesting and very good value, offering most items by the carafe as well as the bottle. We tried two Portuguese wines (one white, one red) and would gladly order them again.

Time Out Bars, Pubs & Clubs Guide 2008/9