Bars & Pubs

The layout of this beautifully preserved 19th-century pub reflects the divisions of Victorian society: a series of partitions around the magnificent central bar creates separate snugs originally intended to keep the classes and the sexes apart. Nowadays, though you can move between snugs via waist-height hatchways, these cramped compartments can be a slightly awkward environment for socialising. They're best for small groups, but may deter late arrivals who might feel they are intruding on a private party. The locals haven't been deterred from flocking here, however, many of them coming for the excellent standard of cuisine in the modern restaurant at the back. The menu's not for dieters, though, being made up predominantly of rich, tasty dishes like chicken breast with potato dauphinoise (£14) and braised shin of beef with horseradish mash (£15.50). The thoughtfully underdone finish in the simple raftered dining room provides a contrast with the pub, where drinkers down pints of Erdinger, Bombardier, Staropramen or Peroni safe in their snugs.

Time Out Bars, Pubs & Clubs Guide 2008/9