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This gastro gem is invariably packed with staff from the nearby Guardian offices, whose splashes decorate the wood-panelled interior. Inside, pub and restaurant areas are divided by an island bar serving both. Ale drinkers get Adnams, Timothy Taylor Landlord and Fuller's London Pride; winos, meanwhile, are spoilt for choice. Eight of each colour come by the glass, five by the half-bottle and 30 each by the bottle, complementing a daily-changing menu whose ingredients are meticulously and regionally sourced (fish comes from Ben's Fish on Mersea Island, for example). The day's eight starters and mains might include a pheasant and chestnut salad (£5.60) and roasted Hereford sirloin (£14); a six-strong bar menu (chorizo with egg and chips, £7.20) provides levity.
Time Out Bars, Pubs & Clubs Guide 2008/9
London's best review, food and drink news
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