Bars & Pubs

The meat workers of Smithfield (and countless clubbers) were up in arms when this early-opening boozer closed in 2006. They have Malmaison to thank for its return, and especially for the fact that its beautiful interior has been restored and updated but largely left unspoiled. The long bar is still there (now with a pewter top), as are the wood fixtures, the lovely snugs and the 8am weekday opening (try the full English at £8.95). Aside from the six hotel rooms upstairs, the most eye-catching change is the addition of a TV in a spot not central enough to be of much use, but visible enough to be a distraction. However, with an array of rarely seen bottled beers supplemented by six cask ales, the Fox is a beer-drinker's paradise. The vigorous cooking is also a couple of cuts above: oysters, picture-perfect steak pie, or an awesome ham hock, sourced from the Ginger Pig. Time will tell if the traders will embrace the more upmarket feel but Clerkenwell's trendy types have already been checking it out.

Time Out Bars, Pubs & Clubs Guide 2008/9