Bars & Pubs

Don’t let fatuous claims about this being the longest bar in Europe spoil what is a lovely pre-travel experience: glass of champagne in hand and tickets at the ready. Underneath William Barlow’s vast curving roof, a wonder of the Victorian age, the station has been painted in original egg-shell blue, offset by equally delightful decorated brickwork. Given such a setting, it must have been difficult to build a bar to fit into it, but operators Searcy’s have plumped for unobtrusive dark wood and banquettes, giving an urban restaurant look that just about works. Champagne is the thing, emphasised by a vast and laudable list of over 100 wines. It includes unusual bottles from some top houses, such as Pommery’s rich, red fruit-scented Wintertime Blanc de Noirs, and the light, fresh and zesty Jean-Paul Deville at the cheaper end. One quibble is that smaller champagne houses, or even grower champagnes – made by the people who grow the grapes – aren’t included. As for food, crunchy granola contrasted well with soft, slippery poached fruit and yoghurt, but tough slices of bacon came on overdone toast. In winter you’ll need a big coat; there’s powerful heating under every seat, but cold air swirls around this large railway shed.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009