Bars & Pubs

NB In October 2009 head barman Nick Stangeway left Hawksmoor to work at Mark's Bar, Hix, in Soho. The review below relates only to the prior period when Strangeway was still head barman. - Time Out
As a restaurant, Hawksmoor succeeds despite the unprepossessing room it inhabits, of undistinguished proportions and uninteresting beige, brick and wood decoration. As a bar, it succeeds despite being stuck at one side of said room, with no dedicated seating of its own beyond a few barstools. Those stools are among London's finest ringside seats, however, for Hawksmoor's laid-back bartenders are cocktail intellectuals. The menu tracks classics such as juleps and 'aromatic cocktails' from their inception: Gin and Pine (conceived in 1862) was served in a cold glass of perfect proportion; Scoff Law (1924; whisky, Noilly Prat, pomegranate and lemon) was a smooth, unfussy blend. Purist means neither severe - there are also more frivolous daquiris, tikis and punches - nor expensive, with much at £6.50. American beers (Anchor Steam, Brooklyn Lager) and well-chosen international wines provide further options. Recommended.

Time Out Bars, Pubs & Clubs Guide 2008/9