Bars & Pubs

By Ben McFarland

Opposite a public toilet in Fulham Broadway, an area that is to decent beer pubs what Brian Blessed is to whispering is the Cock & Hen, yet another Young’s pub that’s had its hair combed over, nose wiped clean and shirt tucked in. Quick! someone call an ambiance. With its wacky wallpaper, North African knick-knacks and retro-chic felts and fabrics, it’s trying to be trendy but, like a work dork on dress-down Friday, just looks a little awkward. The staff are friendly, though. Regulars are more Norf End Road than Fulham’s fancy fwaah-fwaaaah crowd.

In its previous guise the Cock & Hen was one of
very few microbreweries in London and lovingly crafted a terrific beer called Bonobo from
behind the bar. Bonobo’s sadly gone and has been replaced by Young’s, Bombardier, Deuchars, Erdinger and Peroni. Teeming with poultry puns, the menu showcases tasty tucker – eggs Benedict, wild mushroom crostini and its own steak, kidney and smoked oyster pudding.

Bypass the over-deliberate decor and head for the sun-kissed beer garden.

Time Out Issue 1973: June 12-18 2008