Bars & Pubs

You have to walk around some rather soulless luxury developments to get to this huge, Young's gastropub. Inside, it feels more like a bar than a pub, decorated as it is in a mishmash of modern styles: floor-to-ceiling windows; chandeliers; centrepiece leather booths; tables of various shapes; numerous outdoor benches overlooking an unlovely stretch of the Thames. The charming staff fill time between punters by diligently polishing the optics behind a central bar that was serving on hand-pump only Young's Bitter of the brewery's many fine beers (there are a few more by the bottle). The wine list is reasonably priced, with a peachy Domaine Condamine L'Evêque viognier coming in at £17. The food (sharing platters, from £12; smoked haddock fish cakes, £10.95; marinated pork loin with puy lentils, £12.95) is of a good standard too.

Time Out Bars, Pubs & Clubs Guide 2008/9