Bars & Pubs

By Charmaine Mok

Orientalism, in its most obvious and self-indulgent incarnation, has crossed the channel as the London offshoot of entrepreneur Raymond Visan’s original Buddha Bar in Paris. The brand’s reputation precedes it – the enduringly (and almost achingly) hip enclave of the young and mobile in not only Paris, but New York City, Dubai, Cairo and São Paulo among the George V group’s fat portfolio, it seemed destined to become a success even before it touched down on the north bank.

Still, the concept seems strangely dated in London, where token displays of exoticism seem crass and cheesy. Undeterred, Buddha Bar has taken the mystique of the East to new highs; the brand’s iconic buddha statue dominates the ground floor restaurant, where svelte European waitresses glide about in their clingy cheongsams doting on the type of cool clientele that seem to dress exclusively in black and bling.

The restaurant buzzes but this is the kind of place where food takes a backseat, try as they may to convince us that pan-Asian cuisine is back in fashion. We settled for a perch on the upper balcony bar, where the service seemed more amateur and less polished; the bouncer was the most gracious employee on our visit.

The bar nibbles hover over the infinitely more expensive options of sashimi and sushi, and paltry offerings such as spicy lemon edamame (soy) beans for £4 or shishito peppers (similar to Padrón peppers) for £6.50 – this is no beer and peanuts operation. But the cocktails, such as the Millionaire Mojito, were deliciously icy and expertly compiled – the deep honey flavours of Elements Eight gold rum were brilliantly matched with sharp lime, fronds of mint leaf and topped with dry champagne.

Nicely lubricated by good drink and comfortable surrounds, we found ourselves enticed by the music – a mesmerising mix of lounge, acoustic and electronic spiced with Asian vocals and instruments. But as the crowd changed after 10pm (when entry becomes guest list only), a particularly ghastly remix of Amy Winehouse’s ‘Valerie’ boomed over the speakers, turning this nirvana into just another raucous bar.

Time Out Issue 1984: August 28 - September 3