Bars & Pubs

Some still miss the former incarnation of this Covent Garden bar, with wires and exposed heating pipes aplenty. Now it’s more like a hotel venue, with red alcove seating, dinky chandeliers and zinc bar, although head barman Jean-Luc is still there, patient and charming in equal measure. You can face him at the bar or recline in chairs by the wall, but seats fill quickly with opera- and ballet-goers. A new late licence to 1am means there can now be some proper post-curtain sessions too. Wines are fairly French-dominated, Leon Beyer gewürztraminer from 2005 providing interest. The classic French nomenclature ‘Etrangers’ is used to list wines outside France. Ondarre’s 2001 Rioja Reserva shows what good value northern Spain provides in its most famous region: age, and vanilla, bold strawberry flavours emerging from time in the barrel. French-themed snacks include onion soup with toasted gruyère and croûtons, and steak tartare which comes with fashionably triple-cooked chips in its large version.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009