Bars & Pubs

By Ben McFarland

Plonked on the Old Brompton Road near the Troubadour, you could say it's in Earl's Court but, as my mum always said, if you've got nothing nice to say then...

Taking the place of what used to be The Coleherne, arguably London’s most legendary gay pub and a pioneer in the ’80s scene, The Pembroke has gone all grand, gastro and really rather good. It's no longer exclusively gay; the only things that are leather-clad within the venue’s Victorian vestiges are the banquettes, sofas and stools. Low-lit lamps, candles and shimmering chandeliers mellow the dark, decadent decor of the main bar while, upstairs, the cosy knob is cranked-up even further courtesy of a small bar and sofas.

The drinks include better than average beers with Edelweiss, a rarely-spotted wheat beer, Birra Moretti from Italy, the crisp German pilsner that is Bitburger and Adnams served in a hearty jug with a handle. Eleven well-chosen, finance-friendly wines by the glass with bottles range from £13 to £17. With the food, they’ve turned up the gas on ‘gastro’; stuffed chicken leg wrapped in bacon with parmesan mash and Madeira sauce, cod and cockles cassoulet, tuna steak and bok choi. Credit lunchers can also graze on nuts and olives.

The regulars, however, are not a patch on The Coleherne's days when regular elbow-benders included Freddie Mercury, Rudolf Nureyev... and, erm, serial killers such as Dennis Nielsen, Colin Ireland, and Michael Lupo.

Time Out London Issue 2009: February 19-25 2009