Bars & Pubs

This is one of the newer pubs from Geronimo Inns, the upmarket gastropub chain, and it’s a cracker. Very much in its favour are the central location just off Oxford Street (handy for that pre-Christmas shopping), the expensively furnished modern interior, and cooking which is far better than you might reasonably expect. The menu changes and there are often specials, but one visit, we enjoyed the roast lamb, nicely medium-rare, with braised savoy cabbage and roast new potatoes , served with a pleasingly herbaceous rosemary jus (£11.50). Ingredient quality has been consistently good on our visits, in everything from honey-roasted ham to trifle.

To drink there’s an excellent selection of wines by the glass, the aromatic and citruous Franziskaner Weissbier, or British ales such as Sharp’s Cornish Coaster or Doom Bar.

Sunday lunch is served all day, but if you’re just after a snack, there’s also a good selection of sandwiches (rare roast beef, onion chutney and horseradish: £5.95) or a ploughman’s lunch with ham, cheddar cheese or pork pie (£7.50). If you're having difficulty finding the pub, ask someone 'local' for the Ben Crouch Tavern, which used to occupy this site.

Time Out London Issue 2045: October 29-November 4 2009