Bars & Pubs

By Ben McFarland

This new bar takes up residence in the basement beneath Mark Hix’s eponymous new restaurant, located at the less smutty end of Soho’s Brewer Street.

It may be overshadowed by the much-lauded restaurant above it, but it's a destination bar in its own right – a sort-of subterranean speakeasy without the smugness. There’s a made-in-Manhattan feel, with a low zinc bar, tin panels on the ceiling and comfy Chesterfields slouched next to funky 1970s fixtures, a bar billiards table and retro rugs. Despite the dearth of natural light, it’s neither dark nor dingy, while the service is flawless throughout – beginning with a glass of water and bowl of Twiglets served before the drinks menu has even be touched.

Hix has assembled an impressive, all-star dream-drinks-making team to boss the Boston shakers, led by Nick Strangeway, formerly of Hawksmoor and lauded as one of London’s leading barmeisters. He’s brought his stunning, quintessentially British and highly unusual historical cocktail list that, like the food menu, celebrates the seasons with its ingredients. The bar steeps fruits and herbs in spirits, experiments with its own infusions and serves them up in gorgeous glassware.

While the 150-strong wine list might be expected in a restaurant bar, the enlightened beer menu is less so – rare is a top-end drinking venue that hails the ale. But here, with Hix’s very own porter, pale ales, bitters, fruit beers and stouts all served in gleaming tankards, beer is celebrated in style.

You have to order some food, as it’s part of the licence requirement. The entire à la carte restaurant menu can be had here alongside some lovely bar snacks such as pork crackling, sloe gin jelly, oysters and quail’s egg shooters.

The regulars are a mix of postprandial punters that have drifted down from upstairs and Soho workers (though not the ones paid by the hour).

Time Out London October 2009