Bars & Pubs

It’s thought that Brunel built this grade II-listed public house, and may even have kept offices here. As a gastropub, the Engineer (opened 1995) has achieved some fame in its own right as one of the genre’s pioneers. Only the smallish front bar is for serious drinkers; the wine list, which starts at £13.50, is helpfully annotated and includes a choice of three good rosés – perfect for drinking in the convivial walled garden. Cheerful staff made every effort to secure us a table outside even though we’d have been as happy in one of the dishevelled interior dining rooms, decorated with bold floral wallpapers. The menu confidently ploughs its own global furrow, with starters featuring such opposing ideas as sweet potato samosas and salt beef with piccalilli. Salmon koulibiac with spinach and herb butter sauce came with a perfectly cooked poached egg, while miso-marinated cod with mash, pak choi and miso sauce was succulent and sweetly tangy. The puds list wasn’t that tempting, so we were pleasantly surprised by the success of cinnamon-dusted chimichanga, filled with mascarpone and served with a quenelle of apple compote and blackberries. A lovely meal all round.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008