Bars & Pubs

We’re impressed by the consistently warm welcome in both bar and restaurant at this cathedral-like establishment, which is surprisingly cosy for such a huge place (it’s always been a pub, built in 1886, with the dining room added in 1939 at the grand cost of £2,400). The spacious garden is a treat, and staff are smart, sassy and great with kids – and dogs. Beers on offer may include Crane Sundancer from Twickenham Ales, Timothy Taylor Landlord and Leffe, while the wine list (starting at £12), is European with a strong French showing and some intriguing bottles from Spain. On the wide-ranging menu we counted six vegetarian dishes and six from the sea, plus meat options. Salmon with asparagus, broad beans and peas was undeniably delicious, but came with a lurid beetroot hollandaise that some of our party found off-putting. No complaints, though, about seared scallops with broccoli purée and chilli dressing, or the generous bowl of moules. Roast pork loin had all the trappings of a fully-fledged restaurant dish, with apricot, sage and pistachio stuffing, mash and an apple jus. The winning British cheeseboard featured expertly matured barkam blue, kelston park brie, sharpham rustic and boffard, though dessert options of chocolate tart and lemon mousse brûlée also appealed. A great destination for groups.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008