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Several others have followed suit, but the Northgate was the first pub in De Beauvoir to go gastro, and it remains the most popular. The large front room feels pubby, a mix of matey locals making themselves heard over the stereo. You can eat in this front area, but its a bit quieter at the back, in a dining room overlooked by a small, open-plan kitchen. Chalked tidily on a couple of boards, the menu changes frequently, though the kitchen is careful to keep things simple. On the night we visited, three of the five starters were salads, supplemented by a subtle carrot and sweet potato soup, and a sizeable portion of grilled merguez sausages served with rocket and slightly herby yoghurt. Main courses are just as generous and similarly uncomplicated. Mushroom sauce rather overwhelmed its conchiglie pasta not what we had in mind, thanks to too much cream. Happily, a gently cooked cod fillet hit the spot. To drink, there are three real ales and several wines by the glass. A decent, reliable local.
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008
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