Bars & Pubs

Summer sees the Cumberland Arms bottle-blue exterior obscured by the blooms of countless colourful window boxes. Its stripped wooden floors and artfully distressed tables and chairs take on a more homely glow during cold winter evenings. Regardless of the season, the daily changing menu mixes Mediterranean and North African influences with gusto. Risottos and pastas are always on hand as either starters or main courses, as are innovative salads such as smoked duck, artichoke and potato with own-made pesto. Portions tend towards the gargantuan: an antipasti platter to share came loaded with houmous, smoked salmon, parma ham and spare ribs; a main of expertly roasted salmon fillet was presented on a mountain of crushed potato; and the trio of grilled Italian sausages (some of the meatiest weve tasted) were paired with garlic mash and given an almighty kick by a fiery tomato chilli jam. Theres also a well-edited wine list favouring France and the New World, with a dozen or so choices by the glass, plus London Pride, Deuchars IPA and Timothy Taylor Landlord on draught. Beyond a staff penchant for Razorlight, only the patented chocolate and almond cake failed to inspire: dry and flavourless despite being a local legend.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008