Bars & Pubs

This small corner pub sticks to the original gastropub blueprint: no fancy separate dining room, tablecloths or leather-bound menus here. Instead, you can eat where you like: amid the hodgepodge of tables and sofas in the dark front section; in the sky-lit dining area at the back next to the open kitchen; or at awning-covered tables on the pavement. The regularly changing menu is chalked on a blackboard (a trim selection of five or so starters and mains apiece, plus a handful of puds). You cant book which means you may have to wait, but thats no great hardship with real ales and a long wine list to savour. The food is consistently good, inventive and makes sterling use of seasonal ingredients. Highlights of a recent meal included good-quality oysters (French, Irish and Colchester); a seasonal salad of beetroot, assorted leaves and a perfect soft-boiled egg (neither runny nor set), with a horseradish and chive dressing; warm feta, spinach and pine nut roulade; simple roast plaice with chips; and a tangy gooseberry fool, stuffed with fruit. The only thing lacking is the huge, Stanley Spencer-esque painting that used to dominate the dining area. And service can get stretched when the place is busy.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008