Bars & Pubs

Sister to the Ealing Park Tavern , in an earlier life St John’s was the social hub of Irish Archway, with Guinness in the bar and dancing in the large back room that now serves as the restaurant. It’s an impressive space, with a high bronze ceiling, apple-green walls, scrubbed tables and a large collection of portraits, some of which are the work of the owner. Guinness is still on offer; other draughts may include Grand Union wheat beer, Brakspear and Abbot Ale. The wine list starts at a reasonable £12 a bottle, though the group next to us drank champagne all night. Dishes from the semi-open kitchen are cut-above renditions from the gastropub songbook: ox heart with pickled walnut and cauliflower salad for fans of British food; taleggio, artichoke and spinach tart for those with hearts in the Mediterranean. We loved the traditional beer-battered pollock that came with chips, pea purée and tartare sauce. Chargrilled squid with chorizo and piquillos featured tender seafood and the hoped-for tang of peppery flavours. Desserts, at a fiver, are worth ordering too – perhaps a seasonal concoction of ice-cream with matching biscuit. Experienced, confident staff make meals here a pleasure.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008