Bars & Pubs

The owners of this relatively recent addition to the genre have what amounts to a captive local market; it’s a pity they don’t do more with it. When the Hartley opened on this dreary road, it showed pleasing ambition in its menus. However, the one-room hangout has since settled into life as a by-rote gastropub, complete with metallic bar top, ropey art, friendly service and, on our visit, only fleetingly impressive food. Both starters were overwhelmed by their accompaniments, as if the kitchen lacked confidence in the raw ingredients. So it proved: beneath a confusion of pesto, rocket, cherry tomatoes and balsamic, the pan-fried scallops were uneven, while the asparagus that lurked under a fried egg and yet more balsamic was only slightly fresher than the less-than-dynamic bread. Marlin steak was fine, if slightly stringy; the best dish was one of the daily specials: duck confit with delicious mash. Partial compensation for the lack of ales arrived in the shape of Adnams’ new quasi-lager Spindrift, albeit at £3.75 a pint. Prices are otherwise fair.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008