Bars & Pubs

Bitter chocolate walls brightened with colour photos of pak choi and pandan leaves may suggest that here lies an oriental fusion menu, but the Wells’ fare is mostly classic gastropub stuff. It’s an appealing Georgian building within walking distance of the Heath, though most customers are local. Upstairs are three quite formal dining rooms; downstairs, though also dining-oriented, has sofas and a stack of board games for drinkers. Smokers tend to command the outdoor benches these days. Beers on tap include Black Sheep Bitter, but prominence is given to wines and cocktails. We chose a gloriously coloured Puglian rosé from Feudi San Marzano to accompany dishes of celeriac remoulade with bayonne ham, and a thick slab of chicken terrine large enough to serve as a main course. Salt marsh lamb was delicious and perfectly cooked, but the accompanying goat’s cheese was superfluous. Crisp-fried confit duck was treated to one of the few fusion flourishes on the menu: a well-judged combination of rice noodles, pak choi and carrot ribbons. Desserts may include blueberry cheesecake or rice pudding with caramel sauce and pistachios. The Wells is a highly enjoyable local, but not worth a trek.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008