Bars & Pubs

By Guy Dimond

'Why have one when you can have two?' a female friend with a twins fetish once explained to me. And while nothing untoward could ever go on at The Connaught – one of London's most properly old-fashioned luxury hotels – it does seem to have applied the two-is-better philosophy to its drinking holes. First, The Coburg Bar opened quietly earlier this year, new yet already an elder statesman among London's top-end cocktail bars. The Coburg is cosy, expensive, and pretty much flawless. Then in early August, at the end of a long hotel refurbishment, the Connaught's Coburg Bar was joined by the very simply-monikered Connaught Bar, just a short stroll away across the entrance lobby.

But why have two when you can have one? Because that's the way it's always been at The Connaught, and they're big on tradition. (The Connaught Grill was still serving Escoffier-era dishes, complete with game jellied in aspic, a century after Escoffier had hung up his apron).

Some things at The Connaught have changed though. The hotel's new chef, Hélène Darroze, is attracting fresh custom, and the whole place has a fresh spring in its step.

The hotel staff were still sharp-suited, engagingly well-mannered, and greeted me by turn – then a bare-legged customer who could have been a cheerleader for an Olympic beach volleyball team strode past me wearing hot pants. The music from the bar was upbeat and fast, and, as the visitor demonstrated, the crowd was just as flush, but sexier than The Connaught has seen in years. (And possibly ever.)

What's the secret? David Collins, the designer who makes overall the best fancy bars and restaurants, was drafted in to get the look right; as he also designed The Berkeley's enduringly fashionable Blue Bar, the similarities are not surprising. The silvery grey panelling, corniced ceiling, black leather seats and beautiful white marble floors look the part in this grand old hotel, stylishly modern without being nouveau riche. It's one of those bars where getting the right table matters: we got lucky with a prime seat in front of the bling-looking bar. Attentive staff bring sublime bar nibbles: almonds and pistachios with caramelised coatings, succulent olives. Great bar snacks include lobster and ginger spring rolls or scallop sashimi.

There are plenty of excellent wines of course (a simple glass of the house Champagne will set you back £12), but it's the spirits and cocktail list which really makes your jaw drop.

The range of spirits covers every desirable and fashionable drink you can think of – 13 Islay single-malt whiskies, ten types of gin, more than 40 brands of tequila and so on. But it's the cocktails that are irresistible. While the sibling Coburg Bar specialises in the more traditional cocktails, the Connaught Bar isn't scared to
take risks.

A mojito – that most predictable of orders – is pepped up by mixing the white rum with sparkling saké, as well as the expected lime juice, muscovado sugar and mint leaves. This is topped with a white currant garnish. Even more spectacular is the Mulata Daisy, which – like the mojito – is also based around rum, lime juice and sugar, but this time has the tang of fennel seeds, and sweet chocolate liqueur (crème de cacao). But the bar staff can make the classics too. Their version of the mint julep arrives in a glass looking like a fruit sundae, with a sprig of mint, a curl of lemon peel, lots of ice – and a slotted silver spoon to hold back the ice cubes while you sup. The Woodford Reserve bourbon whiskey is given an extra kick with the bitter herbal digestif Fernet-Branca, muddled with sugar cubes. Not only did these long drinks look terrific – they also tasted sublime, the bartender’s craft at its best.

The room was policed by two sleek, lookalike, slightly frosty young female bar staff who could have been specially raised for that purpose in Eastern Europe. Dressed identically in the bar's stylish uniforms, they might have been twins.

Time Out London Issue 1987: September 18-24 2008