Bars & Pubs

Clerkenwell’s first hip hotel, refashioned – of course – from a former Victorian warehouse, declares itself to be a ‘restaurant with rooms’. Head chef Diego Jacquet takes this statement of ambition in his stride, overseeing a creative monthly changing Italian-Mediterranean menu with international rovings and big flavours. On the whole, the results are impressive. Our starters were immaculate: creamy jerusalem artichoke soup with baby spinach empanada was set off beautifully by a sprinkling of toasted nuts; and smoked salmon with pumpkin blini, quail’s egg and citrus crème fraîche was impeccably balanced. Shame, then, that the kitchen took its eye momentarily off the ball when it came to our caramelised duck breast, which arrived a touch dry. The scale of the lofty, crescent-shaped dining space has been handled handsomely. Oversized retro disc lampshades and swirly red graphic devices provide design accents in an otherwise classically good-looking room inhabited by dark browns, whites and wraparound sash windows overlooking cobbled St John’s Square. A fabulous pink chandelier in the lobby, inventive cocktails and the retro-styled Atrium Bar administer the Farringdon factor. But Zetter’s care over the essentials (food, service, pricing) suggests that this particular brand of hip will last.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008