Bars & Pubs

By Ben McFarland

Betwixt Tooting Bec and Broadway tubes, on a street laden with ethno-tastic South Asian eateries and emporia, is this grandiose, Grade II-listed gin palace built in 1896 by legendary pub architect WM Brutton, which has recently been gently fluffed-up from a limp and lacklustre local into an eye-catching, upstanding pillar of pubbery. The restrained revamp has, mercifully, doffed its cap to yesteryear’s Victorian sepia-tinged drinking days by retaining all the lovely bits: ornate tiling, engraved mirrors and windows and dark wood partitions and panelling. Fidelity to the past even extends to the toilets which, by the looks of it, haven’t been touched since Victorian times.

A quartet of fine, rarely poured ales includes Adnams Explorer, a straw-coloured pale ale, Theakston Lightfoot and, filling the guest ale slots, Skinners’ Ginger Tosser and Summer Tyne from the Mordue Brewery. If you're eating, steaks are good if a bit gristly; burgers, jacket spuds and picking platters also feature. Big white hat off to the chef who came out from the kitchen to discuss ‘gluten issues’ in person (surly bar staff take note).

Thursday was foot-tappin’, thigh-slappin, wrinkly-rockin’ blues night. Get a seat in the saloon bar for a drink, large and laid-back lounge for grub and the beer garden and patio for a romantic view of a car park and A24. The King's Head attracts locals both young and old, bar-leaning beer buffs and a few Grigio Girls. Sample dialogue: ‘Did losing a testicle make it easier for Lance Armstrong to ride a bike?’ ‘Not sure.’

Time Out Issue 1981: August 7-13 2008