Bars & Pubs

Rough, ready and perfect for the nine-to-five crowd, this solid, masculine venue is in one of the more unlikely locations for a quaint cobbled street: near King’s Cross Thameslink railway station. The main room carries the bricked-up road theme into the bar, so watch for high heels getting caught and the occasional tumble. A wood-panelled second space next door resembles a youth club but is filled with office workers. The wine list doesn’t set the world alight, but has a forte in mid-priced bottles such as the tasty, full-bodied, yet delicate and minerally pinot blanc Reserve Particulière 2005 from André Scherer. Domaine Cret des Garanches 2005 from Brouilly in Beaujolais was a nice light, raspberry-scented drop with soft tannins: drinkable even with white meat such as a juicy roast poussin with cocotte potatoes and tarragon sauce. Food is generally punchy, with well-cooked lamb’s sweetbreads served with a rich partner of chicken and button onion terrine, as well as toasted brioche. Smithy’s bills itself as one of King’s Cross’s best kept secrets – with everything else that goes on around here, that’s doubtful.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009