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This is a textbook neighbourhood gastropub. Bare wooden floors, kitchen on view, straightforward menu, good selection of affordable wines and great beers on tap. Too many gastropubs forget about the beer, but not the Freemasons: Timothy Taylor Landlord, Everards Tiger, Leffe and Franziskaner Weissbier were all being quaffed with alacrity on our Monday night visit, which was pub quiz time. The shrieks and whoops, plus a man with a mic, drove us away. Returning midweek, we secured a quiet table without problem and enjoyed a starter of own-made fish fingers with tartare sauce. Portions are generous; honey-roasted pork belly with a moat of red wine jus surrounding mash was so generous we had no room for pudding. Although most dishes are predictable (sausage and mash is a favourite), there are a few surprises, such as the salmon gravadlax dyed with beetroot, served with a beetroot-coloured horseradish sauce. The salad-from-a-bag that comes with many dishes is a bit disappointing, but with main course prices mostly under a tenner, no ones complaining.
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008
London's best review, food and drink news