Bars & Pubs

This spotless pub holds plenty to shield its fund manager customers from the atmosphere of a real boozer – lots of clubby dark wood, loos with posh flowers and hand towels, mirrors hinting at the art deco period, a classy carpet. Part of the burgeoning gastropub empire run by brothers Ed and Tom Martin – the others are the Well in St John Street , the Gun in Docklands and new British restaurant the Empress of India, in Hackney – it attracts a hip (rather than braying) City crowd. Beers on tap include Adnams Bitter and Broadside, and Guinness Extra Cold; there are some appealing bottled beers too. If you’re interested in wine, there are around 150 on offer. A ribeye was deliciously tender and came with chips; we were advised side dishes were necessary, so opted for runner beans in preference to salad. Salmon fish cake, however, came with a mound of gritty spinach. A boring dish of ice-cream aside, desserts were impressive: strawberry sundae served in a martini glass, and a light, puffy and deliciously eggy apricot clafoutis with almond ice-cream. Service is charming at times, but prone to distraction and rather too keen on encouraging customers to order extras such as coffee. We ate downstairs; the mirrored and panelled dining room upstairs serves a different, smarter menu, with set meals at lunchtime, à la carte in the evening.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008