Bars & Pubs

The Greyhound occupies beautifully restored premises on a cobbled street. There’s a bar and tables at the front, but the main action takes place in the rear dining room. This is very much a gastropub with the focus on ‘gastro’. It’s also a magnet for wine lovers. Owner Mark Van der Goot had a distinguished career as a sommelier and his passion for wine pervades the list. You’ll find big-name Bordeaux beside obscure Greek varietals, made the more appealing by low mark-ups. Some real ale would be welcome, though. The dining room combines bare brick with chandeliers and attracts pearl-bedecked blondes and suited men. The menu is brief and less studiedly British than many (pumpkin ravioli with sage and parmesan, for example). Our star dish was grilled octopus salad: a purple question mark of tender, tentacled flesh curled over a broad bean and tomato salad. For mains, pink duck breast came with smoky aubergine purée and, somewhat oddly, foie gras. Large gnocchi were stuffed with a gutsy ragout of Herdwick lamb, with crisp fried lamb sweetbreads. Desserts such as delectable black pepper ice-cream, and chocolate tortellini with strawberries were definitely more restauranty than pubby. Service is laid-back and friendly – as it should be when 12.5% is automatically added to the bill.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008