Bars & Pubs

The Cow is to Notting Hill as Aberdeen Angus is to prime beef: still one of the best breeds in its field. This room above a pub was one of the smokiest eateries in west London, so we hope the pocket-sized, 1950s retro-Irish restaurant doesn’t lose all its atmosphere post-ban. The pay-off could be that smoke-free environs will allow sharper appreciation of the cooking. Although the menu specialises in oysters, there’s real finesse in starters ranging from new-season garlic leaf soup to sublimely simple scallops with herbs and tomatoes. There’s imagination too in mains such as Barbary duck breast served with baby spinach leaves and a big, fat, gorgeously ripe quince. Elwy Valley lamb served with pea shoots and mint pesto was no less divine. Such quality doesn’t come cheap – but for the time being all mains cost under £20. To finish, baked vanilla cheesecake and raspberries had the last word on that stout dessert. If you want a dependable, not over-articulated and acceptably priced wine list this is the place to come too – although a pint of finely kept London Pride can be ferried up from downstairs.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008