Bars & Pubs

A curiously un-Chelsea establishment, the Pigs Ear has a mellow vibe that makes you want to linger, either in the white-tableclothed first-floor dining room, or in the comfortable ground-floor bar. The menus are pretty similar in both and, despite the casual surroundings (the bar stops just short of cluttered), food is upmarket fare. There are indeed pigs ears, served as a starter with sauce ravigote; a hint that the menu has limited appeal for vegetarians, though a smooth, spicy gazpacho was a triumph. More typical are roast bone marrow with parsley and shallot salad, or ribeye steak (wickedly good, served with an almost sweet red wine and shallot butter, as well as slightly anaemic fries). Fish makes a decent showing too; pickled herrings with leek vinaigrette and soft boiled egg was a generous, flavour-packed helping. Fillet of sea bass was fine, but what really made the dish shine was the puy lentil and chorizo salsa accompaniment. A well-made macciato and a lovely white peach and frangipane tart with stem ginger ice-cream rounded things off nicely. The French-biased wine list will more than cover most peoples needs, while ale fans get Pigs Ear (natch) and Deuchars IPA on draught. And we cant imagine many customers finding fault with the accommodating staff. A firm favourite.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008