Bars & Pubs

Ah, makeovers. Walk into the Swimmer and you can think you’ve found a genuine historic artefact, with battered wooden floors, panelling and pew seating. A while back, though, calling itself the Grafton Arms, it was another kind of Victorian local, all plush, carpet and brass. No matter, for as the Swimmer it has a real buzz, helped by a funky, full-of-nice-surprises jukebox and events like the esteemed Monday night quizzes. Food, made with panache in an open kitchen, has a feisty edge, as in a hefty venison burger, grilled swordfish, giant piles of calamares and superior chunky chips. Drinkers have Fuller’s ales, a well above average range of draught lagers (Leffe, Litovel), and speciality beers (strawberry-tinged Belgian Früli); wines cover all global bases at good prices. There are free papers and Wi-Fi. Another plus is a plant-lined terrace at the front; smokers have this largely to themselves in winter, but compete with other punters whenever the weather picks up.

Time Out Bars, Pubs & Clubs Guide 2008/9