Bars & Pubs

The ultimate old-fashioned wine bar, in the heart of London legal land. Many a barrister finds a way here from the Courts of Justice opposite, and you’ll hear plenty of conversations about second homes in Tuscany. But despite the patrician air (enhanced since the journalists moved out of Fleet Street), this place has charm aplenty, with old, brass-tacked sofas, dark wood panelling and nicotine-stained walls. The staff, who are mainly Australian or from continental Europe, are young and willing. Barrels of port and sherry offer a cheap glass, and there is a decent selection of good Australian wines, including the delicate stone and lime flavours of Brian Barry’s 2002 Clare Valley riesling. The food is appropriately simple and British. We enjoyed the crunchy, puffy beer batter on the fish, and calf’s liver was nicely pink in the middle, yet charred on the outside. There’s more to this place than meets the eye; other El Vinos are dotted near Blackfriars, Cannon Street and London Wall, and the company has a large mail-order business specialising in Bordeaux and Burgundy.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009