Bars & Pubs

One of London’s oldest bars, Gordon’s is adorned with sweaty, stained alcoves and cobwebs. Surprisingly this appeals to a young, trendy crowd, but you’re still likely to find port-quaffing suits in the main bar. Food is served buffet-style, with salad. We found the tasty, crumbly pastry and rich, meaty filling of the pork pie superior to the likes of poached or smoked salmon, spinach and potato gratin – and to the pâté. A hazelnut-flavoured white verdejo from Portada in Portugal is a notable addition to the improved wine list, but specialities of the house are the assorted ports, sherries and Madeira. A drier style of the latter, sercial from Blandy’s, was a glorious sweet and sour mix of dried prunes and hazelnuts, with biting acidity. Like Gordon’s itself, it is a mix of seemingly apparent opposites that somehow works.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009