Bars & Pubs

By Tom Lamont

For me, it begins with persistent dreams about the England squad. Michael Owen gets a puncture and needs a lift to Germany, Wayne Rooney lets me jaggle him by the jug-ears for luck, Frank Lampard says he's my best friend - the usual things. When I wake up in a sweat, scared out of sleep bythe disturbing image of John Motson doing goal-kicks with the Jules Rimet trophy, I know it's close. The World Cup is approaching.

While I dream of involvement, and major corporations jostle to announce their roles as England's official aftershave and coat-hook, pubs like The Baring are making their own preparations for the tournament. The new owners of this pleasant Islington Green boozer are transforming their entire upper floor, eschewing the original plan to build a restaurant and turning it into a games room, complete with Sky-equipped big screen and table football. Not the 'so what?' development you might think. In a neighbourhood rich with worthy-but-snooty gastropubs and terrifying locals-only shacks, an inviting venue in which to watch football is not to be scoffed at.

However, there are other considerations outside of football. Attempting to lure customers from the popular Rosemary Branch nearby, the Baring hosts weekly theme nights, none of which are sports-related. The most popular is Thursday's 'quiz and curry for a fiver' - excellent value. And since a renovation of the property last year, The Baring looks fantastic: simple beige and claret walls, well-chosen artwork, and a warming gas fire.

A handful of staple main meals on the menu (bangers and mash £6.50, steak pie £7.90) is supplemented by a large number of daily-changing specials; at weekends, the £6.50 brunch is best. With Adnam's and London Pride at the bar, ale fans will be satisfied if not excited.

The Baring says the games room will be ready in a month or so. Just in time to watch us crash and burn against Trinidad and Tobago.

Time Out London Issue 1857: March 22-29 2006