Bars & Pubs

By Jenni Muir

To crown its recent refurbishment programme, The Dorchester has put the redesign of its landmark bar in the hands of Thierry Despont, a New York-based French architect whose clients have included Claridge's, Ralph Lauren and the Statue of Liberty. The look he's gone for is elaborate, with plush purple and gold swirl banquettes and red glass spikes fringing the room like extraterrestrial bulrushes. The effect is a little Eurotrashy, but fun and luxurious; and while the decor suggests modernity, a sense of grand tradition is still conveyed through the impressive drinks list.

The Dorchester's bar originally opened in the 1930s and its first head bartender, Harry Craddock, was the celebrity cocktail authority of the period. Today's staff (dressed in white-collared-and-cuffed shirts by Stewart Parvin, one of the Queen's favoured designers) are keen to show off their knowledge and enjoy engaging customers in conversation about the drinks, their history and their ingredients.

A flight of vermouths intended for sharing showcases the hotel's selection (said to be the largest in the UK) and highlights the distinct flavours from light and dry to intensely sweet and herbal. Flights of martinis, served in the same modern cone-shaped glasses, which are then set in tumblers of ice, are also available.

As in most hotel bars, the food is overpriced for what you get, but the fusion menu is no afterthought. Poilâne sourdough bread is used for a selection of tartines with toppings such as roast beef, Jabugo ham and celeriac remoulade. We enjoyed a fresh-tasting Thai fishcake quesadilla with coriander mayonnaise and shiso cress salad, though a plate of bland chocolate desserts disappointed. No matter - this is really the spot for a soirée before or after dinner, somewhere to impress or seduce, but watch for the competition. The staff seem to coo: 'When will we see you again?' to anyone who leaves; the answer, inevitably, is 'very soon'.

Time Out London issue 1875: July 26-August 2 2006