Bars & Pubs

Service started with a wobble at this usually flawless gastropub; it was early evening on a boiling hot summer Sunday, bar staff were tired, some dishes had run out. But once we were settled, nothing disappointed. The fish platter was plenty for two, with sardines, mussels, crayfish, smoked mackerel, shrimps and crab meat, plus a little salad and four triangles of brown bread. Mains followed promptly: beef-battered cod with minty mushy peas and thick chips; and chicken breast with sweetcorn potato cake and merguez sausages. Not that adventurous, then, but the latter was a notably delicious combination. The wine list is short but carefully chosen; an excellent sauvignon blanc from the respected Villard estate in Chile cost £15. Desserts weren’t needed, but from a list that contained profiteroles, cheeses and chocolate mousse with sponge cake, we opted for what looked like the lightest option: lemon and lime soufflé. Not very light, as it turned out, and not tangy enough either. Any other cons? Well, the Heathrow air traffic is relentless, especially if you’re out in the leafy beer garden, but that’s unavoidable in this part of town.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008