Devonshire Arms

Gordon Ramsay Holdings operated the Devonshire Arms until last year. According to Mark Sargeant, the chef who oversaw its opening, it was 'at the wrong end' of Devonshire Road. Not even Ramsay could persuade the borough of Hounslow to alter the street layout, so it closed last year. It has now reopened, at the same end of Devonshire Road, following its purchase by the team behind the Draper's Arms in Barnsbury.

It doesn't look like much has been changed inside, although a £200,000 refurb is reported. It's hard to see what such a huge sum would have been spent on. But it's still a handsome if austere place, with dark-painted wood panelling and metal lamps. One side of the space is just for drinking, with drawing-room armchairs, a fireplace and board games. There's a small but neat decked area out the back.

Diners are sat down one side of the bar. Our starters, both a salad of rabbit with black pudding and bacon, and another of pigeon, were slightly underwhelming in flavour, and the game was a bit dry. Things improved with the mains, which showed a bit of flair while sticking within the gastropub boundaries: a sliced bavette with chips tasted like good-quality steak and was perfectly grilled, and two fried fillets of John Dory came with a summery borlotti bean broth.

Our waitress had to check with the kitchen what was in a 'Devonshire mixed salad', and another behind the bar didn't know anything about the real ales on tap (Wandle, Woodforde's Wherry and the always welcome Harvey's), although everyone we dealt with was very friendly. The wine list is extensive and well-priced, with accessible tasting notes and a few by the glass.

It remains to be seen if the reincarnated Devonshire can turn the 'wrong' end of the road into a destination, but it's going in the right direction.