Burrito-a-go-go
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By Peter Watts
Posted: Tue Aug 5 2008 -
For years, London was a culinary graveyard. Sure, you could get decent Indian, Chinese, French, African, Korean... even Burmese but try and hunt down an appetising burrito and you would come to an unhappy end, forced to wear a fake sombrero, down shots of petrol tequila and eat cheap chicken wrapped in leathery flatbread, doused in plastic cheese and tasteless salsa.
For anybody who had spent time in the States, where the burrito is a work of art, this was a travesty. It regularly had me in tears and I briefly considered opening a burrito restaurant of my own to fill the gap.
One fan even set up a blog lamenting the lack of quality in the London burrito market. We had upmarket Mexican restaurants - but, like posh fish and chips, they all seemed to be massively missing the point in a typically London fashion.
But now, things are changing and the quintessential Calitexican street food is over here in a big, big way.
It began in Soho, with a restaurant called Beach Burrito Co (later rebranded to disappointing affect as Mexicali). And where one started, others soon followed. Last Thursday I spotted five - three in one tiny patch of Goodge St (the longstanding El Burrito restaurant and the excellent Freebird stall outside Oxfam are now joined by the curiously named - and thus far unsampled - Benito's Hat), another off Exmouth Market (where there's also a second Freebird stall) and Mucho Mas on Upper Street.
So which is your favourite? And is the burrito here to stay, or it will it be this decade's answer to the jacket potato craze of the 1980s or the soup mania of the 1990s?
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12 comments
The Hat gets my vote all the way. Hands down the best Mexican in town. Dont know what the last poster means, but both El Burrito and Benito's Hat charge for guacamole on everything except vegetarian burritos. Thats pretty standard around town.
I prefer El Burrito, the staff seem much nicer. They don't charge you extra for guacamole, like they do at Benito's Hat. I found that annoying. Next time I'll try the Freebird stall.
Big fan of donkey man. He rules.
Having now been to Benito's Hat, I can add my voice to the chorus of approval. It's very good.
I also like the fact that the three burrito places around Goodge Street now form a Little Mexico triangle that looks suspiciously like a tortilla.
I recently moved to London from the states, and I have to say that I really am missing my Mexican food. At home, there's literally a restaurant on every street corner. They are more common than starbucks! I would love to find a decent place to get a burrito here, but I'm afraid I might be disappointed. I might give this Benito's Hat a try though.
Living in Islington, Mucho Mas is the handiest way to get a burrito fix and it's fine - the salsas aren't quite right but the food is otherwise good and fresh.
I'd give the crown to Benito's Hat, though, I think. The salsas swing it for me. The pico is good with the tomato and onion satisfyingly fresh, the verde has just the right balance of flavour and spice, and the brava blows your head off in just the way a good hot sauce should.
It's only been open for a few weeks and I've been back four times and will continue to do so until the restraining order arrives in the post.
Someone give the lovely crazy donkey man a carrot-he neighs and everything!
I used to like the tostadas in La Perla but not been there in an age. Was intrigued by Benito's Hat and they didn't disappoint...fantastic quacamole and the freshest burritos by far. Didin't mind the queue....will be back at Margherita hour to sample those..uh oh!
I work off Goodge street and have definitely noticed the sprinkling of mexico in the area - really becoming a little mexico. The Hat for me is the best - especially the pork tacs and margerittas, but i also quite like the burrito stand. Quick a large portions.
I have also been longing for a decent burrito place in London for years. I have tried the ones that are cropping up now and think Benito's Hat is the best. The food is better than the rest - mainly because it is fresh - and it is not a bad place to have a beer in the evening either.
To be honest I think is just another passing food fad imported from the US. Aren't they really just a wrap with a fancy name?? As the yanks might say 'whatever' to burritos...
Have checked out the new and curiously named Benito's Hat and have to stay it is heads and hats above the competition. Delicious burritos (the pork is already my favorite thing ever) and yummy yummy margaritas.
I check in at freebirds on goodge st a few times a week and have loved it every time from what i remember it was there before el burrito started and by the way im not much of a fan what in my opinion is a rather bland taste at el burrito.
High time someone else noticed the flowering of Little Mexico behind Goodge St. I like homespun over prodfuction line but Freebird is only ok (burritos big but a bit lukewarm). El Burrito's Mexican burritos (breakfats wraps, basically) are great though and you've got to love the guy in the donkey msuit. Interview that man for 24-hour London!