The Pigalle Club

The Pigalle Club is one of a growing number of places combining food and live music. And getting all those things right – even under the ownership of Vince Power, who founded the Mean Fiddler – is tricky. They’ve got the decor spot on, with low lighting and retro-swanky furnishings. Tables on two levels give a good view of the stage from everywhere.The food is less reliable. The kitchen knows how to cook a rare steak and make a decent confit of duck, but it tends to mess around with things that need no messing. They should also ease off on the salt sprinkled over frites and salad.

Some aspects of pricing and service are also annoying. Their pricing formula (£29 for two courses, £35 for three) is fine, but olives and bread were offered without mention of the price: £2.50 each for a tiny bowl of undistinguished black olives and two – woo hoo! – slices from a rustic loaf. The steak came with nothing except a gluey sauce, not even a sprig of watercress, so frites (£4) and salad (£4.50) seemed necessary. Starters arrived almost the instant they were ordered, then there was a long wait for mains. The wine list offers almost nothing worth drinking under £25 – inexcusable.

With all the extras, the prices seem high. But remember: your bill isn’t just paying for food and drink, it’s paying for the music. And the house band were a pleasure to listen to, especially when singers joined in at around 10pm. Headline acts such as Van Morrison will feature from time to time – though at a higher price. It’s a good formula. All they need to do is sort out the problems with the food.

The Pigalle Club, 115-117 Piccadilly, W1J 9HN (020 7734 8142) Piccadilly Circus tube. Open Mon-Sat 7pm-4am; last food orders 11.30pm. Meal for two with wine and service: around £110.