London

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Best Local Restaurant

Trinity

WINNER
Trinity
Chef/owner Adam Byatt was one of the two Adams that ran Clapham’s much-acclaimed Thyme a few years ago. Now he’s returned to the area – and to form – with Trinity, a textbook model of a great local restaurant. The room is stylish but not flashy, with well-spaced circular tables and foldback windows that are wonderful on warm evenings. Service was impeccable: informed, attentive, with a personal touch that makes every diner feel special. The judiciously chosen wine list caters for all price points. And the food was sublime. Hardened meat-eaters fare well (braised pig’s head), as do lovers of the luxurious (lobster, truffles), and vegetarians get a look-in, too. Each dish is listed by its three main ingredients: a starter of ‘mackerel, cucumber, horseradish’ involved sweet, juicy mackerel fillets, with a smear of not-too-strong horseradish cream plus pickled cucumber in the form of tiny cubes and little curls (dishes look as good as they taste). Feature continues

‘Beef, oxtail, bone marrow’ (a main) comprised pot-au-feu of Longhorn beef – soft as butter – with punchy oxtail ravioli, bone marrow and a stew of summer vegetables. For dessert, we bravely resisted the temptation of ‘chocolate, chocolate, chocolate’ in favour of passion fruit sorbet (intensely flavoured, perfect texture). Pricing is very reasonable for cooking of this quality, and the set menus, especially the lunch offering, are an absolute bargain.
Trinity, 4 The Polygon, SW4 0JG (020 7622 1199/www.trinityrestaurant.co.uk) Clapham Common tube.
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RUNNERS-UP
High Road Brasserie
An offshoot of Nick Jones’ Soho House (there’s a members’ dining room and hotel upstairs, plus a bar in the basement), this is a slick and seductive operation that wouldn’t look out of place in central London, Paris or New York. It’s a good-looking (if noisy) space, with dark wood furniture, green banquettes, and a dove-grey awning over the pavement tables; the colourful, multi-patterned ceramic floor tiles are particularly striking. The classic brasserie menu caters for all appetites, at all hours. It covers everything from seafood (oysters, seafood platters) to sandwiches, burgers and grilled fare (ribeye, chateaubriand), plus regular starters, mains and desserts. You could drop in for breakfast or for cocktails. The food didn’t quite live up to the promise of the menu; it’s good but not flawless. Potted shrimps were excellent (buttery, creamy, packed with flavour), as was a summery chicken casserole with baby turnips, carrots, peas, broad beans and potatoes. However, a main of skate was overcooked, and the accompanying salad was dreary. The shallot vinegar – to go with good-quality oysters – came in a bottle, which made it almost impossible to use. The wine list is appealing, though there’s not much choice by the glass. Impeccable service from staff dressed in long white aprons and black waistcoats, and a buzzing atmosphere compensated; the attraction here is more about generosity of spirit than perfect, finicky food.
High Road Brasserie, 162-166 Chiswick High Rd, W4 1PR (020 8742 7474/www.highroadhouse.co.uk) Turnham Green tube.

Lola Rojo
Forget earthenware crockery and colourful tiles: there’s nothing old-fashioned about Lola Rojo. The two-room space is modern and bright (white and scarlet, with monochrome patterned wallpaper); the staff (all Spanish) are young and upbeat; and the food is contemporary and inventive. The menu – in English – is divided into different tapas: hot, cold, meat, fish, cured meats, paellas and rices. Almost all the dozen dishes we tried were excellent. Ingredients are top-quality: witness the cécina (dried cured beef from León) and the mojama (paper-thin slices of smoked dried tuna). Black rice was vibrantly flavoured, with chunks of squid and a big dollop of aïoli – you’d be pushed to find better in Spain. Ditto the confit of suckling pig with vanilla apple purée. The nueva cocina approach is most evident in the desserts: mango ice-cream sat in a bowl of white chocolate ‘soup’, with a smear of thyme-flavoured toffee. The all-Spanish wine list is an eclectic treat.
Lola Rojo, 78 Northcote Rd, SW11 6QL (020 7350 2262) Clapham Junction rail.

Tapas y Vino
Chef-restaurateur John McClements (who also owns adjoining French restaurants La Brasserie and Ma Cuisine) has created a remit that’s wider than just Spain, with the likes of halloumi, houmous and chicken tagine on the menu. The selection of hot and cold tapas is not as interesting as the ‘speciality’ list, which includes Moroccan pigeon bastilla, snails with Jabugo ham in a dinky pastry case, and zarzuela (the Basque shellfish stew – here an impressively overflowing bowlful). Clams with chickpeas and chorizo was earthy and hearty; gazpacho was suitably thick and tangy. The quality of meat and its preparation was excellent; the use of herbs and spices expert. Yet the tapas cost only £4 each or thereabout – even a small plate of Jabugo ham, which routinely sells for £12 or more in lesser venues. Service was charming, though staff could perhaps be better-informed.
Tapas y Vino, 111 London Rd, TW1 1BJ (020 8892 5417/www.elvinotapas.co.uk) Twickenham rail.

Tom’s Kitchen
'Tom' is acclaimed young British chef Tom Aikens, who runs his own haute cuisine restaurant just round the corner. This is his simpler, cheaper restaurant for the well-groomed Chelsea masses. It’s a bright and attractive space – though noisy. You can visit for breakfast (porridge, full English and, absurdly, Weetabix for £2), lunch, dinner or, at the weekend, brunch – though many dishes appear throughout the day. The menu is a crowd-pleasing mix of British and French influences, with plenty of meaty options (steak tartare, Cumberland sausages with mash and onion gravy, roast rump of beef with Yorkshire pudding) as well as the likes of lemon sole ‘à la française’ and macaroni cheese. We enjoyed excellent eggs Benedict (perfectly cooked eggs, crispy bacon), less so a burger with all the trimmings, though the thick-cut chips were spot-on. Best were the puds: chocolate profiteroles with vanilla ice-cream and a sumptuous chocolate sauce; and own-made vanilla yoghurt with sugared churros. The black-shirted staff were scatty and didn’t smile much.
Tom’s Kitchen, 27 Cale St, SW3 3QP (020 7349 0202/www.tomskitchen.co.uk) Sloane Square tube.

Leffe Best New Restaurant |Best Gastropub | Best British Restaurant | Best Family Restaurant | Best Local Restaurant | Best Cheap Eats | Best Bar | Best Design | Best Traiteur | Best Coffee Bar