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Maltby Street, SE1
Discover the traders at London's latest food destination
During the summer of 2010, a quiet bubble of gastronomic intent was swelling under the railway arches in Bermondsey. This unlikely south-east London destination now houses a collection of independent food and drink retailers, and it's proving popular as a way to spend a Saturday morning or early afternoon (9am-2pm). Zoe Kamen explores the gastronomic delights that await beneath the arches.
St John Bakery
Buying the daily loaf at St John Bakery - © Ming Tang-Evans
Maltby Street is emphatically not a street market - it's merely a collection of rented railway arches, experimenting with opening to the public on Saturday mornings. Cheap rent and a proximity to Borough Market led several traders to set up wholesale or storage operations in the arches.
In arch 72, the St John Bakery (where all the loaves are baked for St John and St John Bread & Wine) is a significant trader, bringing oven-hot loaves to the trestle table at the front of its cavernous space. Their light, creamy custard-filled doughnuts and buttery eccles cakes are the items to make a bee-line for – get there early to have your fill.
72 Druid St, SE1 2DU (www.stjohnbakerycompany.com).
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