London

On a heaving blackened dance floor off Hoxton Square, complete with strobe lights and hands thrust in the air, early 1990s house music booms from massive speakers. Is this a flashback to an old warehouse rave? Several glammed-up trannies and other men in wigs and frocks dance alongside girls in black and lots of eyeliner. Hosted by i-D magazine and Boombox, the staple Sunday night-spot for fashion designers and their transsexual muses, this is the after-party for London's current prince of darkness and innovation, Gareth Pugh. Greeting the queue of eager partygoers is Pugh’s friend James, who models a vast black and red PVC creation with dubious projections, setting the tone for the night. Feature continues

A quick taxi ride away, in the grander surroundings of an opulent Georgian townhouse in Mansfield St, W1, the Biba party (DJ Pam Hogg) is in full swing as a well-dressed bunch of partygoers sip on Tanqueray cocktails. Here it’s all about dressed-up decadence and designer labels. It’s hard to imagine two more different crowds. Only in London.

Roksanda Ilinic's evening gown

The end of the second day of London fashion week has seen a diverse mix of different styles. First up was Serbian designer, Roksanda Ilincic, who 12 hours earlier delivered sculptural evening gowns with a puffed-up silhouette. Her chic models, with slicked-back hair and defined eyebrows, glided through a decadent Mayfair salon. Ilincic, who has made a name for herself designing elegant cocktail frocks with a modern twist, played with proportions, adding little bustles, oversized bows and big puffed sleeves with frills. The collection had a distinctively 1950s feel, albeit with a modern attitude.

Jonathan Saunders, a Brit whose signature was dynamic graphic prints, has pared things down a bit and his collection – all monochromatic with the odd dash of cornflower blue and orange seemed a wee bit flat this season. Inspired by military regalia, Saunders created clothes built on grids and squares, with panels of fabric to represent armour. What did work were the flowing floor-length dresses with black and white panels and his chic new suitcases, produced in collaboration with Globetrotter.